MONDAY

MY LAST RUNWAY SHOW (WOMENS FALL/WINTER 2011) WAS 3 WEEKS AGO WITH THE PREVIOUS SHOW, (MENS FALL/WINTER 2011) 6 WEEKS BEFORE THAT. THE NEXT SHOW (MENS SPRING/SUMMER 2012) IS IN 13 WEEKS SO I FEEL LIGHT AS A FEATHER.

I DON’T PARTICULARLY FEEL PRESSURE TO PROVOKE OR ASTOUND, THE NEXT COLLECTION WILL JUST NATURALLY & RATIONALLY EMERGE. IT ALMOST SEEMS THAT THE WORLD OF FASHION SEEMS TO HAVE DECIDED TO TOLERATE ME & MY PACE. WELL, FOR THE TIME BEING, I SUPPOSE.

RIGHT NOW I’M IN THE MIDDLE OF LAUNCHING THE FABRIC & LEATHER ORDERS FOR PRECOLLECTION, MENS, DRKSHDW, LILIES, SHOES & ACCESSORIES COLLECTIONS WHICH WILL BE SHOWN AT THE END OF JUNE. I HAVE SWATCHES OF SILK SEERSUCKERS, VEGETABLE DYED SHANTUNG SILKS, BLACK WAXED CANVASES, WASHED LEATHERS THAT LOOK LIKE THEY HAVE A DARK METALLIC/ MINERAL SURFACE & SEA LEOPARD HIDES. THIS MIGHT BE ONE OF MOST DELICIOUSLY PLEASURABLE STEPS IN A COLLECTION- LIKE A KID PLAYING WITH DEAD LEAVES & FEATHERS IN A CORNER OF A GARDEN . OR A WITCH MAKING A BREW TO CAST A SPELL. LIZA MINELLI, DOROTHY SQUIRES & JULIE LONDON ARE PLAYING IN THE BACKGROUND IN MY OFFICE OVERLOOKING THE GARDENS OF THE MINISTRY OF DEFENSE. THE MUSIC USED TO BE LOUDER & A LOT MORE AGGRESSIVE 10 YEARS AGO, BUT I’M ALMOST 50 NOW SO MAYBE I DON’T NEED TO WORK MYSELF UP THE WAY I USED TOO.

WELL, EXCEPT FOR AT THE GYM WHERE I’M GOING RIGHT NOW, WHERE I’LL LISTEN TO HARD TECHNO LIKE TRANCE GENERATORS OR B AMES MIXES.

I’LL WALK ACROSS THE TUILERIES WHERE THE MAGNOLIAS ARE BUDDING & THE DAFFODILS ARE BLOOMING ALREADY, TO PLACE DE L’OPERA WHERE MY GYM IS. WORKING OUT IS A WONDEFUL BLEND OF VANITY & MEDITATION. IT’S AN EXPRESSION OF SIMPLE PHYSICAL RELEASE & JOY LIKE DANCING TO DISCO USED TO BE. IT’S TIME TO DREAM & LET IDEAS COME THAT I JOT DOWN ON MY IPHONE NOTES APP TO DOWNLOAD LATER. I’M NOT AS GOAL ORIENTED AS I USED TO BE SO I DON’T HAVE A TRAINER OR A VERY SPECIFIC PROGRAM, IT’S MORE ABOUT MAINTANANCE & UNABASHED PREENING. I SPEND AN HOUR THERE, WANDER BACK, HAVE LUNCH, TAKE A NAP & KEEP GOING TILL DINNER WITH MY BETTER HALF THE HUN AT 10:00. IT’S LOVELY TO HAVE GOTTEN TO THIS CALM PLACE & I CERTAINLY DON’T TAKE IT FOR GRANTED…….



TUESDAY

TODAY I’M LOOKING AT CARDBOARD MODELS FOR NEW FURNITURE PIECES I’LL BE SHOWING IN LA IN DECEMBER. I HAVEN’T BEEN BACK TO L A IN 8 YEARS. NOT FOR ANY PARTICULAR REASON, JUST TOO BUSY & TOO FAR. & I’VE BEEN THERE ALREADY.

ANYWAY, I EITHER DO LIFE SIZE SKETCHES & HAVE A CARDBOARD MODEL BUILT, OR DO SMALLER MODELS TO PLAY WITH AN IDEA. THE ONES TODAY ARE SMALL MODELS WORKING ON THE PRINCIPAL OF THE FEWEST GEOMETRIC SHAPES SLOTTING INTO EACH OTHER TO SUPPORT A SHAPE. THE DIFFERENT ELEMENTS WILL BE MADE IN BRONZE, STONE & BLACK LUMBER. I WANT SOMETHING VERY ELEMENTAL & PRIMITIVE, BUT HORRIBLY, MERCILESSLY MODERN. I’M THINKING OF PIECES I WOULD WANT TO FURNISH A HOUSE BY LUIGI MORRETI OR CARLO SCARPA .

THE FURNITURE & FUR BUSINESS’S ARE MY VERSION OF HAUTE COUTURE . IT’S TIME CONSUMING, LABOUR INTENSIVE & RARE. & IT WOULD’T HAPPEN WITHOUT THE CULTIVATION OF THE HUN. I’M AFRAID I DON’T HAVE THE PATIENCE TO CAJOLE RESULTS OUT OF ALL THE ARTISANS IT TAKES TO CREATE THESE PIECES- THE BRONZE FOUNDRY, THE MARBLE & ALABASTER ATELIER, THE CARPENTER, THE FURRIER……..

SHE VISITS ONE ATELIER AFTER ANOTHER & I’VE SEEN THESE GUYS LIGHT UP WHEN SHE SWEEPS IN IN THE JEWELRY, VEILS & FURS- SHE GIVES THEM MAGIC & THEY RECIPROCATE.

BUT FIRST, THIS MORNING I HAVE TO GO TO MY STORE IN THE PALAIS ROYAL TO TEST THE SCENT DIFFUSER THAT’S BEEN INSTALLED. I’VE HAD A PERSONAL SCENT MADE & WANT TO HAVE IT FILL THE SHOPS, BUT FRANKLY, EVERYONE HATES IT BUT ME. IT CONTAINS EASTER LILY, CIVET, EUCALYPTUS & A HAS A MOTHBALL- LIKE PUNGENCY. I ADMIT IT MIGHT BE A LITTLE CHALLENGING……..

THE PARIS STORE IS THE SMALLEST, SO THE DIFFUSER GOING THROUGH THE AIR CONDITIONING MIGHT BE TOO INTENSE & ABSORB INTO THE CLOTHES WHICH MIGHT BE A DIRTY TRICK ONCE A CLIENT TAKES SOMETHING HOME & WONDERS WHERE THAT AWFUL SMELL IS COMING FROM.

THE SCENT IDEA IS ONE I’VE BEEN MULLING OVER FOR A WHILE. I LIKE PERFUME. SCENT IS ONE OF THOSE MYSTERIES OF MEMORY, ALLURE & DREAMS THAT'S SO TEMPTING TO HARNESS, MANIPULATE & POSSESS. BUT PERFUME CAN BE A BIG BUSINESS THAT MIGHT TAKE A LABEL FURTHER THAN I’M WILLING TO GO RIGHT NOW. IF IT’S DONE WITH ONE OF THE LARGER FRAGRANCE COMPANIES, THEIR DISTRIBUTION & PROMOTION MIGHT BE OVERLY ENTHUSIASTIC & A BIT HARD TO RESTRAIN . NOT THAT I NEED TO LOSE SLEEP OVER IT BECAUSE NO-ONE’S ASKING ME.

SO I’M JUST PRODUCING IT MYSELF WITH A MASTER PERFUMER IN PARIS WHO’S WORK I’VE FOLLOWED OVER THE YEARS. I HAVE NO DEADLINE OR BOUNDARIES & HAVE GOTTEN EXACTLY WHAT I WANT. IT’S LIKE SINKING INTO A BEAUTIFUL, DENSE, SLIGHTLY UNHEALTHY GUSTAVE MOREAU PAINTING. WELL, TO ME AT LEAST.



WEDNESDAY

LAST NIGHT WAS AN ART DECO AUCTION AT CHRISTIES & HUN & I HAD OUR EYE ON A FRANCIS BACON CARPET; ONE OF THE FEW SURVIVING EXAMPLES OF HIS EARLY DECORATING CAREER IN THE EARLY THIRTIES - IT WAS IN FADED BEIGES & GREYS WITH A BLACK CUBIST MOTIF & HAD THE SIGNATURE PARTLY CUT OFF AT THE BOTTOM.

I REASONED THAT BACON PURISTS WOULDN’T BE INTERESTED & DECO COLLECTORS WOULD FIND IT TOO CAMP- I WAS WRONG & WE WERE OUTBID BY A MILE. & WE HAD ALREADY FOUND THE RIGHT SPOT FOR IT IN THE HOUSE….

THIS MORNING I GOT THE PROOFS OF THE BOOK I’M DOING WITH RIZZOLI. BIG & HEAVY. I COULDN’T BEAR HAVING ACADEMIC TEXT AS AN INTRODUCTION SO IT’S JUST SCATTERED WITH INTERVIEWS & A FEW ANGRY BLOG CRITICS OBSERVATIONS. MOSTLY IN BLACK & WHITE, THERE ARE SPORADIC BURSTS OF SATURATED COLOR TO WAKE UP THE READER. IT’S VERY VALIDATING TO BE ABLE TO ELIMINATE YOUR MISTAKES & REWRITE HISTORY IN YOUR IDEAL WAY…..

THERE ARE RELATIVELY FEW PHOTOS OF REAL LIFE ME IN IT, & ABOUT AS MANY AS THE UNREAL ME. LET ME EXPLAIN.

WHEN WE FIRST BOUGHT THE HOUSE WE LIVE IN IN PARIS SOME YEARS AGO, I HAD A WAX FIGURE OF MYSELF MADE AS A PERSONAL PORTRAIT OVER THE FIREPLACE EXPERIENCE. I FELT AS IF I HAD TO RECORD THE MOMENT IN A VERY CLASSICAL WAY. I WAS FULLY AWARE OF THE IMPLICATIONS INVOLVED- TRYING TO CLUTCH A MOMENT OF GLORY THAT WOULD BE ALL TOO BRIEF IN A SELF ABSORBED MORBID EXAMINATION OF MY OWN MORTALITY. I ALSO HAD IT SHIRTLESS & URINATING OF COURSE.

NEEDLESS TO SAY, IT BECAME TIRESOME SEEING IT IN THE HOUSE & SO I HAD IT INSTALLED IN THE PARIS STORE WHICH WAS TOO BEAUTIFUL & NEEDED A DISTURBING ELEMENT. AS WE OPENED MORE STORES, IT BECAME WEIRDLY ESSENTIAL FOR EACH STORE TO HAVE ONE. LONDON HAS A SEVERED HEAD ON A PLINTH IN HONOR OF OSCAR WILDES SALOME, KOREA’S HAS JETS OF AIR MAKING THE HAIR FLY AROUND & JAPAN’S IS ON THE WAY.

THE STORE IN TOKYO HAS BEEN OPEN FOR 2 YEARS BUT THIS FIGURE TOOK A WHILE. FOR SOME REASON, IT TOOK THE ARTISANS A COUPLE OF TRIES TO GET THE CORRECT FACIAL TEXTURE & THE RIGHT IRIS SIZE IN THE EYES. THE TORSO IS SHIRTLESS & MORPHS INTO A DISTORTED MONSTER LEG ENDING IN A CLAW, INSPIRED BY GODZILLA.

OF COURSE I’M HAVING IT RECALLED & REGRET I EVER THOUGHT OF IT.



THURSDAY

LAST NIGHT WE WENT TO THE ARTPARIS OPENING IN THE GRAND PALAIS. IT WAS PACKED & OF COURSE, LOOKING AT THE ART WAS INCIDENTAL. I JUST ENJOY THE PAGEANTRY & THE OCCASION OF BEING IN THE MIDDLE OF A CROWD IN THE GRAND PALAIS. IT’S A GROWNUP MOSH PIT. WHAT ESPECIALLY DELIGHTS ME IS KNOWING THAT WHILE THE CROWD IS SWANNING AROUND UNDER THE GLASS DOMES, ON THE ROOF, SWARMS OF BEES ARE MAKING HONEY IN THE HIVES THAT ARE ARE INSTALLED THERE. BEEHIVES ARE ALSO INSTALLED ON THE ROOF OF THE OPERA GARNIER. ISNT THAT KIND OF ENCHANTING?

TODAY, HUN & I WENT TO THE MUSEE BOURDELLE TO SEE THE MADAME GRES EXHIBIT BEING SHOWN THERE. GOOD IDEA, SHOWING ALL THOSE DRAPED GODDESS DRESSES IN MUTED & FRAGILE SILK JERSEY IN THE MIDDLE OF ALL THOSE MONUMENTAL HEROIC BRONZE FIGURES . CAROLINA HERRERRA WAS THERE AS WELL, LOOKING VERY LOVELY & ELEGANT.

THE LAST TIME WE WERE AT THE MUSEE BOURDELLE WAS FOR THE REVILLON SHOW I DID IN 2004. I REMEMBER THE RUNWAY CIRCULATION BEING A BIT TRICKY & A LOT OF THREADBARE CORDEROY & FOX. & SUICIDE DOING “CHERIE” AS THE SOUNDTRACK. OH, & REALLY GREAT ALLIGATOR BOOTS. BEING THE ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AT REVILLON, THE FRENCH FUR MAISON FOUNDED IN 1723, WAS A WONDERFUL LARK THAT JUST DIDN'T HAVE ENOUGH HORSEPOWER TO LAST. I LEARNED A LOT THOUGH, & LOOKING BACK, IT SEEMS TO HAVE GIVEN ME CREDIBILITY WITH PARISIANS THAT A YOUNG AMERICAN DESIGNER DECIDING TO SHOW IN PARIS OUT OF THE BLUE MIGHT NOT HAVE GOTTEN OTHERWISE.

THE MUSEE BOURDELLE IS IN THE 15TH ARRONDISEMENT HOUSED IN THE ATELIER & GARDENS THAT ANTOINE BOURDELLE LIVED & WORKED IN. MENTORED BY RODIN , HE IN TURN MENTORED GIACOMETTI. I CAN’T UNDERSTAND HOW SOMEONE WHO WAS DOING NAKED WARRIORS ON TWO STORY HIGH REARING STALLIONS WITH TESTICLES THE SIZE OF YOUR HEAD COULD SLEEP IN THE TINY FURNITURE THAT FURNISHED THE LIVING AREA THAT THEY KEEP PRESERVED THERE. IT WAS A DRIZZLY MORNING & WE WALKED THROUGH THE SHAGGY GARDEN WITH HUGE MYTHOLOGICAL FIGURES PLANTED IN BETWEEN THE OLD, RANDOMLY PLACED BUDDING TREES. BEAUTIFUL.

THIS MORNING I I DID AN INTERVIEW WITH GERT JONKERS, THE CREATOR OF BUTT MAGAZINE, FANTASTIC MAN & THE GENTLEWOMAN MAGAZINE. I ASKED IF HE WAS AWARE OF A NEW E COMMERCE WEBSITE (THAT I SELL TO INCIDENTLY) WHOSE FORMAT SEEMED TO ECHO THE FORMAT OF FANTASTIC MAN. HE WAS AWARE & NOT SO PLEASED. I CAN IMAGINE. BUT IF YOU PROPOSE A STYLE YOU THINK IS A GOOD IDEA & IT BECOMES INFLUENTIAL, YOU’VE SUCCEEDED, RIGHT? & IT MIGHT BE UNCOMFORTABLE IF YOU SEE YOUR REINTERPRETED IDEA NOT UP TO YOUR STANDARDS BUT WOULDN’T IT BE EXCRUTIATING IF IT SURPASSED THEM? HAVING YOUR AUTHORSHIP IGNORED WOULD BE DEPRESSING BUT IF YOU’RE AGKNOWLEDGED AS THE ORIGINATOR, A GOOD IDEA SPREADING IS JUST INEVITABLE ANYWAY, RIGHT? INSISTENT AS I WAS, I’M NOT SO SURE I CONVINCED HIM………..



FRIDAY-SUNDAY

WEEKENDS ARE USUALLY THE TIME I HAVE TO REALLY FOCUS. IF THE SUN IS EVEN VAGUELY OUT, I’M ON THE TERRACE WHICH IS SPECTACULAR RIGHT NOW WITH BLOOMING TREES & MY FAVORITE WHITE WISTERIA JUST WAKING UP. THE BLACKBIRDS THAT NEST UNDER MY OFFICE WINDOW IN THE ROSE VINES HAVE RETURNED & TAKEN UP RESIDENCE IN THE SAME NEST THEY USE EVERY SPRING.

THIS IS THE TIME THAT I HAVE TO SPREAD OUT ALL MY NOTES & SKETCHES & EDIT WHAT HAPPENED THE WEEK BEFORE, & PLAN FOR THE WEEK AHEAD. IT’S A CHANCE TO HAVE THE WHOLE DAY TO REARRANGE & PLAY WITH ELEMENTS OF THE WHOLE PICTURE INSTEAD OF WORKING ON DETAILS & TECHNICALITIES ONE BY ONE, ONE ON ONE, ALL WEEK. MY “SKETCHES” ARE ACTUALLY BLACK & WHITE IMAGES OF TOILES THAT I’VE DRAPED ON A MANNEQUIN WITH A FEW BLACK MARKER SLASHES TO SUGGEST THE LINE OR VOLUME THAT I’M GOING TO ADD. I GROUP THEM ON 2 BIG TABLES IN MY OFFICE, ALONG WITH BLACK & WHITE IMAGES OF THE SHOES, BAGS, FURS, DENIMS, & FURNITURE.

THE REASON ALL THE IMAGES ARE BLACK & WHITE, IS FOR A PLEASING UNITY & TO JUST FOCUS ON SHAPE & SILLHOUETTE. I’M NOT THE GUY YOU REALLY GO TO FOR COLOR ANYWAY. IT’S IMPORTANT TO SEE EVERYTHING TOGETHER ALL AT THE SAME TIME BECAUSE WORKING ON ONE GROUP STIMULATES & SUGGESTS AN IDEA FOR ANOTHER. & I WANT THERE TO BE A CONSISTENT THREAD TO ALL THE GROUPS THAT CARRIES ON THROUGH TO ALL THE YEARS. I DON’T HAVE ANY IMAGES ON THE WALLS & WHEN I HAVE A GOOD EDITING SESSION THAT LASTS ALL WEEKEND, EACH GROUP GOES INTO A SEPARATE FILE , & THE FILES ARE LAID OUT ON THE TABLES TO REFER TO ALL THE NEXT WEEK.

ON SATURDAYS, HUN USUALLY HAS HER WEEKLY LUNCH AT GALERIE JOUSSE, THE GALLERY THAT REPRESENTS THE FURNITURE. THEY REVIEW WHICH PIECES WILL BE GOING TO WHICH COLLECTORS OR WHICH PIECES NEED TO BE READY FOR WHAT SHOWS COMING UP, - ART BASEL, THE HONG KONG ART FAIR , ART BASEL MIAMI BASEL, FIAC IN PARIS, & FINALLY LA IN NOVEMBER. FRANKLY, I LOVE THE SLOWER PACE OF FURNITURE…….

AFTER HER LUNCH, SHE USUALLY GOES FOR A BOXING SESSION WITH HER TRAINER. I’M FAIRLY STRONG WITH WEIGHTS, BUT IF I HAD TO DO HALF HER SESSION, I’D COLLAPSE IN A SILLY LITTLE HEAP. SHE’S VERY RAGING BULL.

TODAY WE GAVE A BRUNCH WITH FRIENDS THAT INCLUDED THE EDITORS OF THE BIANNUAL JOURNAL SOME/THINGS. THEY DO BEAUTIFULLY BOUND DENSE VOLUMES STUFFED WITH SMART BEAUTY THAT THEY USUALLY GAIN A SURPRISINGLY INTIMATE ACCESS TO. AFTER GETTING TO KNOW THEM & THEIR INTEGRITY, I AGREED TO GIVE THEM ACCESS TO MY STUDIOS & FACTORIES DESPITE SOME RESERVATIONS FROM MY TEAM. ALTHOUGH SOME OF THEM AVOIDED BEING PHOTOGRAPHED, I’M CONFIDENT THAT HAVING RECORDED THIS TIME TOGETHER WILL MEAN A LOT TO US ALL LATER ON. & IT WAS DONE WITH SUCH AFFECTION & RESPECT, IT FELT LIKE A GIFT. & IT WAS. ANOTHER BRUNCH GUEST WAS GAETANO PESCE, THE ARCHITECT & DESIGNER WHOM I’D NEVER MET EVEN THOUGH WE HAD A CONNECTION; WE HAD INHERITED JACEK NOVAK, THE TALENTED CARPENTER WHO STARTED THE FURNITURE COLLECTION WITH ME FROM MR PESCHE. AS A YOUNG MAN COMING FROM POLAND NOT KNOWING FRENCH, JACEK HAD WORKED FOR GAETANO FOR YEARS UNTIL GAETANO DECIDED TO MOVE TO NEW YORK. WHEN WE ARRIVED IN PARIS & NEEDED SOME WORK DONE, JACEK WAS REFFERED TO US & EVENTUALLY MOVED IN & BECAME PART OF OUR FAMILY. JACEK HAS SINCE RETURNED TO POLAND TO OPEN AN ATELIER EXCLUSIVELY PRODUCING OUR FURNITURE & RETURNS PERIODICALLY WHEN WE START SOMETHING NEW. HIS FRENCH IS FINE NOW, BUT MINE ISN’T. I CANT SPEAK A WORD. REALLY. I WAS SO HORRIFIED THAT I DIDN’T JUST PICK IT UP THE FIRST WEEK I GOT HERE, THAT I JUST DROPPED IT LIKE A HOT BRICK & NEVER TRIED AGAIN.





POSTED 2.01PM BY LUKE MAYES / SEE ALL POSTS RELATED TO THIS AUTHOR