MONIKA BIELSKYTE / IS JUST LIVING ENOUGH FOR YOU, OR WAS IT NECESSARY TO ‘MAKE SOMETHING’ OF YOURSELF? & IS SEEING & EXPERIENCING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL ENOUGH IN ITSELF OR IS THERE A NECESSITY TO ENCAPSULATE IT SOMEHOW, TO CREATE SOMETHING OF IT, TO PRESERVE IT FROM BEING FORGOTTEN?
BRETT ANDERSON / a few years ago i seriously thought about retiring into a life of personal happiness. the idea of rejecting creativity did seduce me for a while. i think there's a simple, naturalistic part of me that wishes living was enough, but i think, unfortunately, my ego & the need to express myself dictate that i create too. i'm aware that the need to leave a legacy is quite an infantile concept but i also think that doing something with your life gives it some meaning & adds color & depth to its other corners. it's too easy just to intellectualiSe yourself into nothingness. without wishing to sound glib, i guess i find life, nature & art so stimulating that i need to kind of emulate those visions with my own twisted language. i suppose it's the competitive, obsessive 13 year old in me that can't just leave it alone when he senses the possibility of making something that might matter, to others, yes, but ultimately to myself.
[..]
MB / IS DIFFICULTY TO COMMUNICATE, LONELINESS OR ISOLATION SOMETHING YOU STILL HAVE TO DEAL WITH TODAY?
BA / I'm naturally not a very sociable person so i suppose i have a tendency to willingly isolate myself. i prefer the company of books to most people but do passionately love being with my family & close friends for whom i would happily die. years of being in a successful band turns people into socially retarded, emotionally crippled fools. i saw this happening to myself & predicted the lonely life that was waiting to claim me & managed to wrestle myself away from this inevitability like a dreamer struggling to wake himself from a nightmare.
i still can't do small-talk but now have the capacity not to want to go & shoot myself in the toilet in the middle of dinner parties.
/ Excerpt from A CONVERSATION WITH BRETT ANDERSON. ENTIRE 10 PAGE ARTICLE WITH EXTENSIVE INTERVIEW ONLY IN PRINTED EDITION OF SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE
/ BRETT ANDERSON AT HIS HOME IN LONDON / MAY 2010 / PHOTOGRAPHED BY MONIKA BIELSKYTE
POSTED 01.56PM BY LUKE MAYES / SEE ALL POSTS RELATED TO THIS AUTHOR
[LOCATION] The cultural context of my images is in the INSIDE— my feelings, my guts. The outside is just material, the visual material I use to articulate the emotions, the pains that I live.
[WOMAN] One of my first recurrent subjects was the female body. Looking for those images in art history was something of a search for pleasure and peace. BUT, the first time I really entered the subject of women was through the images of prostitutes in Bahia, in an old and decaying part of the city. those pictures were of women who had suffered, who had been scarred, yet were still able to laugh at their destiny of pain. their dignity was that of raped women, who are survivors. They are raped as is mother earth, who continues to always bear children. No matter how difficult it is to believe— there is always a future.
[BOXERS] There is this place where all kinds of people mix—crooks, policemen, prostitutes, old decaying men… Boxers are an essay on the fading masculine body & my own fading away. It is about TIME.
[Previously unpublished images by MIGUEL RIO BRANCO as well as some words which we exchanged during several months of discussions working on his 22-page feature in SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE
POSTED 5.22PM BY MONIKA BIELSKYTE / SEE ALL POSTS RELATED TO THIS AUTHOR
We are very pleased to share an interview with our Associate Editor Raina Lampkins-Fielder, who has been at the helm of our contemporary art features, as well as the conceptual side of SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE, since ISSUE002.
When my coworker showed up to work in leather pants and a Rolling Stones T-shirt, I knew she wouldn’t stick around long, and indeed she didn’t. (Neither did I, for that matter.) Working together last year at a “leisure newswire” that shall remain nameless, Marie-Noelle was an energetic light in the office with bigger fish to fry… thus pretty instantly familiar. She had a friend I just had to meet, she kept saying, who she knew I’d hit it off with. Which is where Raina came in.
On a two-hour lunch break at Fuxia, an Italian spot near the Canal Saint-Martin, Raina Lampkins-Fielder and I broke bread last summer, sipping wine and rapping all about art, Brooklyn and parenthood. A former associate director at the Whitney Museum’s education department—with stints at both the Andy Warhol Museum and the Brooklyn Museum of Art—Raina had just given birth to twins, and devoured our adult conversation time like a crispy baguette doused in extra-virgin olive oil.
Hope you do too.
We recently connected in the pouring rain at Odette et Aimé café to discuss more about her editorial spot at the new Paris-based, English-language some/things (pronounced “some slash things”) magazine, and other furthermuckin topics of choice.
No one I speak to for the Expat Q has moved here for “political reasons,” like Americans used to once upon a time. Care to speak on that?
We certainly didn’t leave for political reasons at all. It’s not as if I didn’t kind of think about that. But then when you really think about what you do for political reasons, no, you stay and you fight the good fight. That’s what you do. You don’t flee: you stay. Also, if I would’ve left the US for political reasons…France? Is this the place to choose? [laughter] I don’t necessarily think so. Not for some remarkable French, all-embracing, democratic whatever. I mean, this isn’t that place. It’s not the place to go to.
It did have that kind of veneer, but now that is, like, gone. Fully gone. It’s gone so much that you have those parts where you’re like, “Hmm, I’m raising my little kids here?” I’m kinda glad London is close, so they can see some black folks in suits. Black people on television outside of the month of August. In commercials, maybe with, like, natural hair. [laughter] Those forced bangs, very straightened, it’s not working on little black girls’ hair, man. [laughter] Hopefully there’ll be some sort of change, but you don’t even see many black folks here with dredlocks who are not American.
What are your thoughts on blackness in Paris?
It’s really complicated, because my blackness in Paris is not a black French person’s blackness in Paris. I’ve traveled places where it would be physically impossible for me to kind of assimilate in a certain way. But you try to assimilate in some ways. You try to take on the posture of a country. And I realized, maybe because of living here, and also raising children here, that it is important to me to not take on the posture and attributes of this country. Because it is beneficial to me, being of African origin, to be American.
What I feel, and maybe I’m wrong, but this principle of, “Regardless what color you are, what your religion is, you’re French” is really such a fictional thing. It doesn’t manifest itself in a way that is actually egalitarian. What it does is, it excuses them from having a conversation about difference. And the differences that are here should be this amazing intellectual and cultural currency; they completely deny to take advantage of [it].
I realized that the kind of horrible legacy of saying “everyone is French” is that it makes it difficult for someone who is French but doesn’t look like what a French person imagines themselves to look like to have even developed the language through which to express it. Because they have been raised French.
I tend to know many more black folks in Paris who have come from somewhere else. And it’s not like everyone is going towards this black expatriate community. Those things happen, but it’s not like it’s a black American expatriate community. It’s friends from all parts of the world, they’re pan-African, who kind of find themselves together. We realized that we didn’t really have the type of really close relationships with black French women, and it was curious.
There’s another divide even within that kind of “being black in Paris.” I’ve had people say, “Well, it’s obvious you’re American before you open your mouth.” Well, what is that? “It’s the way that you move.” And so that’s going to define you in a certain way to both white people and black people. You know, I don’t choose to necessarily believe everything that somebody tells me. [laughter] Those are some of the thoughts that are out there. I think it is hard to be black in France.
How do you feel about raising your kids here, in terms of their identity?
What’s interesting is not only teaching them about blackness, but also kind of the definition of what that is, and whose blackness it is. Because my context would be kind of an African-American idea of blackness. Part of what is imbedded in that is insuring a kind of Americanness about them as well. And so it makes it a little bit complicated. Plus, my husband’s British. So there’s kind of that Britishy stuff to bring in. And we’re a multicultural family who have children who look like the spectrum of the races.
At the supermarket, an old woman was trying to get some change and she couldn’t find it, so I started to get her some change. She pointed out my babies, and I’m sure she assumed I was the nanny. I could be nothing but the nanny. [laughter] Which I certainly get a lot, particularly when they were much younger, ’cause some people [tend to] not think I’m their mother because of the way that they look. This woman, I could barely understand all that she was saying, but what she had said that I did get was that she was not into my one child because she was darker, and said something to the effect of, not knowing that they were mine anyway, she could kind of accept that the white child was okay.
I know that I’m probably considered American first to a French person than a black person. So that’s quite a difference. There is something about that that’s quite liberating. Not that I ever felt a burden in the States. I’ve never not wanted to be black or to be different. Sometimes I have felt like I needed to be more of something, but I’m okay with who I am, and have been for quite a while. The American thing here trumps everything. You’re just like any other American.
White children in France can play with black dolls. It’s just a doll. It’s a doll first. It’s not a statement that a person is making. Whereas in the States, if it’s a white family and they gave their child a black doll, they’ve had conversations. [laughter] Whereas here, people just do it.
What’s so amazing is that they’re not necessarily helpful to their own folks, who don’t have the flexibility to straddle the lines of being a French person here and being part of a viable international community. A Senegalese community is considered an immigrant. I can’t really speak to certain things, because I know I’ve been given a very different entrée to things.
How did some/things magazine come about?
I’d never done a magazine before at all. And funnily enough, I was at a party and met someone who was doing another magazine called UOVO. She said, “Oh, would you like to do something for this magazine?” What I discovered now that I’ve worked on two magazines is that I work on magazines that call themselves magazines but are in fact books. You know, they function as sort of curated books. So I did a couple of things for UOVO, which is super, and then they disbanded because of this crisis.
But at a launch party for UOVO, I met this woman, Monika Bielskyte, the creative director who actually founded some/things. This is before that was anything. She just started talking to me, and I liked her. She said, “Let’s stay in touch.” I knew she was a photographer, and I liked her spirit. She was unusual. Finding that person in Paris who a) comes up to you—
Is she French?
No, she’s Lithuanian.
There you go.
[laughter] But somebody who comes up to you and says, “You look kind of interesting to me. What’s your story?” That’s her approach. I didn’t really follow up. I had her card, she had my card, she would send me things like, “Look at my work.” I never followed up. And then finally, like two years ago, I looked at her work on her site, and I really liked it. I liked her aesthetic, I like her eye, what she focused on. So I said, “Let’s talk, I’d love to do something.” “I’ve started this magazine, don’t you want to do something, da da da da?” And I’m like, “Well, I have no time.” I just had the twins.
But then she’s like, “C’mon, c’mon, c’mon.” So then we started doing this magazine.
The launch party was great; I liked the space too. What’s the point of some/things?
There are three of us who do the content. I oversee all of the contemporary art. And now that we have a creative agency that’s come from the book, I’m the deputy art director. And at the gallery, I’m the deputy art director for the art budget of the gallery.
The whole point of some/things is, we really wanted to create something that was unique, that tells some sort of story—whether we’re dealing with an artist or a fashion designer or politics or what have you—that we’re kind of taking on something that’s, it’s a different view to it. We want to spend the time in interviews, we want to create portraits of people, portraits of ideas. In some ways, the book itself becomes a portrait of who we are, who the team is, as people. Because we don’t say, “a third of it has to be fashion, a third has to be art, a third has to be politics.” Every book starts from something that’s just random, that excites us.
Everything has a primal theme and a title. The last one was called Farewell My Concubine. That was based on the film. Not that we wanted to reënvision that story, or not as if it would be even overtly communicated to the audience. But we liked some of the color palette that came out of the film, a certain type of red. Ideas of transformation. Certain ideas of sexuality, of a changeability. That’s what drove the artists, the personalities, the musicians, all the people that we selected. And it certainly provided the direction for how we would interact with them.
The types of interviews that we had were exhaustive interviews. Some of the people in that issue, they could start their memoirs from the interview that we had with them. [laughter] But it was really getting into the person, portraits of that person. There are many more shots of people’s faces; we really wanted to have the actual portrait of the artist.
I think of it as this tone poem: this idea that you can go from the beginning to the end of this book and that it is literally about a journey. We don’t have any ads, because that would sort of interrupt the flow. It also places it in a time, it assumes something. We’ll draw from anywhere. If there’s someone who did something in 1920 that we think visually works, whatever. It’s quite a personal thing that we hope has sort of visual and intellectual resonance for others.
The issue that we’re working on now, it’s called The Wings of a Locust, dealing with ideas of architecture, ghostly presence, loss, memory, transparency. A color palette that came out of just looking at images of oil spills [laughter] and the way that an oil spill—just a certain type of shimmer, a certain palette that came out of that—wanting to find ways of replicating it.
These are the things that drive the sensibility of it. And the sensibility of the magazine also is a little bit dark. It’s not like this happy dance through these images. It’s a little dark. But we also want it to be revelatory in a way. It’s a little bit vague. But when you see the book, it’s actually quite concrete for the reader.
That’s what some/things is about.
And what’s going on at the some/things space?
Well, we had our first exhibition in November. And I’ll let you know: it is hard to do a magazine when our staff is this small. That’s over 320 pages of just pure content, no filler, no ads, while also opening a space that needs to be completely gutted and remade. While also then deciding that we were going to have an exhibition. It’s a bit crazy. We’re also having another exhibition, January 23.
The first exhibition was kind of an extension of the work in issue 3. I think we’ll continue to do that. But then we also want to have other activities that this space can accommodate, whether it’s people who want to do readings, or something that makes sense within what we do.
Our next show in January is going to be looking at fashion, but in the way that we look at fashion. ’Cause I don’t think art is fashion, and I don’t think fashion is necessarily art. I think both of them can be in some ways. But there’s an aspect of me that is a purist for art. I don’t want to put everything into a commercial market. But we do look at fashion in a very particular way.
Even when we did the piece on Yohji Yamamoto, the works that we chose from the archives to show, we wanted it to be something that for me looking at it as somebody coming from the art world, it would work for me. And it can be such a subtle thing. Like the part of the back that is shown that is clothed in some Yohji Yamamoto piece, a slight kind of turn in image can function as a photograph itself, as opposed to something that is a photograph of [the clothes]. We want to have an exhibition that expresses that kind of sensibility.
Let’s talk about your apperances on Jarvis Cocker’s Sunday Service radio show on BBC 6.
He’s a great friend. Our children are extremely good friends. We met through our kids, and we became kind of fast friends ourselves.
I only know Jarvis from bum-rushing Michael Jackson at the ’96 Brit Awards. I don’t know any Pulp songs. Did you know him from the English rock band, Pulp?
Yeah, but you know, I didn’t really recognize him. He and I just totally clicked. It was at a time when I was really new in Paris, and he’d been here a few years. We needed to talk to someone. We would have coffee every single morning, kind of without fail, for a couple of years. We’d talk about life, stupid stuff, we would do the crossword together. He’s the godfather of my girls, so we’re really good friends. That’s the real reason why I’m on the show, if the truth be told. [laughter]
It’s an awesome show. It’s something that’s coming from his mind, the various types of music, the various types of references; politicians or artists or whomever that he’s got coming to interview. I mean, it’s just really fun. It’s almost old-fashioned, where you can go to a radio show and listen to it for two hours and you’re gonna hear music that you never heard before and you’re gonna hear [director] Ken Loach talking about something or… it’s fun.
He often would have readings, and so he asked me to read some stories for the show, which is good fun. It’s something that I enjoy doing. When I put on my more performative voice, it’s something that I can do pretty well.
Will you be on again soon?
The show is on every Sunday. If everyone writes in, I will be a regular. [laughter] He curates each of the shows, so it sort of depends. The last story that I read was for his holiday special, kind of about Christmas and the holidays. The story worked for that show. And the song that came after worked with that story, so it really depends on that.
Was your grad work at the University of Cambridge your only experience living abroad?
I spent a semester abroad in London before, when I was in undergrad. I got into it, and got a lot of friends. It was through the Yale program, and we studied at the Paul Mellon Centre for British Art. I just really loved being on my own.
And then Derek, my husband, when I was in London—he’s British, so his family lives there—he had gotten a job with Reuters. Well, eventually with Reuters, but he first got a job being editor-in-chief of a Russian business magazine called Kak Dela. It was actually in Russian and English, in St. Petersburg, in Russia. So we went to Russia and I was in England.
You visited?
Often. Then he moved to Moscow to be a producer with Reuters, which was amazing. So I was back and forth between England and Russia. I’d have eight weeks in England and then I’d spend like a month or six weeks in Russia over those two years. He was there full-time, for three years totally.
We moved back to the States, we were in New York… Pittsburgh first, and then New York. He’d lived abroad. He grew up in Hong Kong. When we were in New York, I became this sort of New Yorker. I never thought at all about leaving New York.
Where are you from?
Pennsylvania and Indiana.
You were born in…?
Ohio. I’m totally midwestern. It’s, like, not cool. [laughter] But I think it’s super cool. Who’s from Indiana in Paris now? So it’s kind of interesting. [laughter]
/ Raina Lampkins-Fielder photographed at la coupole by MONIKA BIELSKYTE / vivienne westwood coat, azzedina alaia jacket, jean prouve chairs. special thanks to alpar ok at theatre de la ville, olivier at alaia & remi at jousse entreprise.
[Interview courtesy of MILES MARSHALL LEWIS]
POSTED 03.42AM BY LUKE MAYES / SEE ALL POSTS RELATED TO THIS AUTHOR
Unpublished images from an exclusive feature inside SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE , which provided a look inside the Rick Owens furniture atelier, where the pieces are being handmade. THE ENTIRE ARTICLE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE PRINTED EDITION OF ISSUE003.
/ PHOTOGRAPHY BY Monika Bielskyte
POSTED 12.57PM BY LUKE MAYES / SEE ALL POSTS RELATED TO THIS AUTHOR
Monika Bielskyte / I remember when you asked if we could include images from your past, you said you don't really have anything, because every time you moved you would leave everything & start a new life. Can you tell me more about that? Is there a necessity to move on?
MICHELE LAMY / It is not so much about moving on anymore, because I am very fond of all those places I have been. But there is something about age, I had that even before, even when I was very young. I believe that every time you start, you feel like you are 18— you have to understand how everything works, how the relationship with people is, what you can do. I am trying to find an answer to it, perhaps that's why this trying to get a lot of different lives, to feel like you are a kid again & again. When I was a girl I went to Sienna— my mouth dropped— wow! The first time you would arrive to New York, or the first time you would arrive somewhere else there used to be that— wow! Now it's much harder to find something really new— we have seen all those pictures... yet it is still a new experience to live in a different environment, there is something about the language, I like to talk a lot, perhaps not to talk, but to be talked to... I like things that are talked, I love to read too, but you know what I mean... I like most to find somebody, somebody very old, so they can tell me stories about things I don't know, about places I don't know.
SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE001 / SHEDDING SNATCHES OF SONG LIKE PETALS was the beginning of what would become a very close relationship with the house of Rick Owens. ISSUE002 featured Rick's architecture photography & for our last issue, FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE, we photographed Rick's furniture collection being handmade in the ateliers. SOME/THINGS ISSUE004 will continue this collaboration with a very special and extensive article that will give readers an exclusive insight into a never before seen side of the Rick Owens world.
/ Excerpt from a conversation with MICHELE LAMY. The Entire 16 page feature can be found in SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE001 / SHEDDING SNATCHES OF SONG LIKE PETALS.
POSTED 01.37AM BY LUKE MAYES / SEE ALL POSTS RELATED TO THIS AUTHOR
Irene Silvagni photographed by peter lindbergh some 20 years ago in her Avignon home.
MONIKA BIELSKYTE / PHOTOGRAPHY, FOR YOU, WAS ALWAYS OF CRUCIAL IMPORTANCE, IN YOUR WORK AS YOHJI’S CREATIVE DIRECTOR AS MUCH AS WHEN YOU WERE A MAGAZINE EDITOR.
IRENE SILVAGNI / FOR THE EARLIEST YOHJI CATALOGUES I WASN’T THERE, I WAS AT VOGUE. INSTEAD THERE WAS A WONDERFUL ART DIRECTOR NAMED MARC ASCOLI WHO WAS INVOLVED WITH YOHJI. MARC HAD ALL THOSE GREAT IDEAS & A GREAT EYE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY & PHOTOGRAPHERS & WAS VERY INVOLVED. HE DID A GREAT JOB. YOHJI HAS A PARTICULAR SYSTEM OF WORKING WITH PHOTOGRAPHERS. HE’LL SAY, ‘I AM DOING THE COLLECTION, BUT I AM ALLOWING MY ART DIRECTOR & THE PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT ART DIRECTOR CHOOSES, TO MAKE AN INTERPRETATION OF MY WORK & I WANT TO BE SURPRISED’. THIS IS YOHJI; HE ALWAYS SAYS IT’S NOT HIS JOB TO DECIDE ON THE PHOTOGRAPHY OR THE CATALOGUE, HE WOULD LIKE THE PHOTOGRAPHERS & THE ART DIRECTORS TO WORK ON IT. BUT HE ALWAYS HAS THE RIGHT TO SAY I DON’T LIKE IT. WHICH HAPPENED & THE THING HAD TO BE REDONE; IT HAPPENED WITH ME, IT HAPPENED WITH MARC. SO ALL THOSE CAMPAIGNS, FROM THE EARLY YEARS UNTIL MY ARRIVAL, WERE DONE BY MARC ASCOLI, WITH NICK KNIGHT, MAX VADUKUL, THEN I CAME & MARC LEFT, & THEN HE CAME BACK AGAIN, & HE WORKED WITH ME ON 2 CATALOGUES, & WITH M/M (PARIS) WE ALSO DID CATALOGUES WITH DAVID SIMS, CRAIG MCDEAN, PAOLO ROVERSI. THEN, MARC LEFT BECAUSE HE HAD OTHER THINGS TO DO & YOHJI PREFERRED NOT TO GO TO THE PAST BUT TO GO TOWARDS SOMETHING ELSE. MAX WAS WORKING ON Y’S, WE DID A FEW CATALOGUES FOR Y’S, FERDINANDO SCIANNA ALSO WORKED ON Y’S, & INEZ & VINOODH, AT THE BEGINNING OF THEIR GREAT CAREER, ALSO DID A FEW CATALOGUES FOR US. SO WE WERE DOING YOHJI YAMAMOTO CAMPAIGNS & CATALOGUES FOR A VERY LONG TIME, BUT WE STOPPED A FEW YEARS AGO. THERE WAS AN ECONOMIC REASON, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY YOHJI WAS TIRED OF IT; HE WANTED A NEW WAY OF SHOWING HIS CLOTHING. HE NEEDED A LITTLE BIT OF AIR & A LITTLE BIT OF SILENCE AROUND HIS WORK. FINALLY WHAT REMAINS ARE GREAT IMAGES, BECAUSE YOHJI WAS OPEN ENOUGH TO GIVE THE FREEDOM TO THE PHOTOGRAPHERS & THE ART DIRECTORS. NOW I DON’T SEE MANY MYTHIC IMAGES THAT WILL REMAIN FOR THE FUTURE FROM CONTEMPORARY ADVERTISING, EXCEPT MAYBE FOR THE MARC JACOBS CAMPAIGNS BY JUERGEN TELLER, THEY HAVE THEIR OWN PERSONALITY, YES. BUT SOMETHING THAT WOULD CREATE HISTORY, A STORY THAT WOULD MARK, THERE ARE NOT MANY THINGS LIKE THAT TODAY. WHAT COMME DES GARÇONS IS DOING AROUND THE FRAGRANCES, & THE COMME DES GARÇONS SHIRT, THEIR CATALOGUES, THEY ARE ALWAYS VERY INTERESTING, BUT WHAT WAS DONE IN THOSE YEARS AT THE BEGINNING OF YOHJI NEVER REPEATED, EVER.
[..]
MB / WHY DO YOU THINK PEOPLE NEED TO GET CLOSE TO DEATH IN ORDER TO START APPRECIATING THEIR LIFE, ALL THE SIMPLE THINGS, TO STOP BEING AFRAID OF GIVING OF ONESELF? SINCE I LOST MY FRIEND, IT MADE ME REALISE I SHOULD NOT WAIT BEFORE SHOWING PEOPLE I REALLY CARE ABOUT THEM, BECAUSE MAYBE IF PEOPLE REALLY KNEW THAT OTHERS CARED ABOUT THEM, IT COULD SAVE THEM.
IS / YES BUT THE PROBLEM IS THAT YOU CANNOT HELP SOME PEOPLE BECAUSE THEIR DESTINY IS SORT OF TRACED. EVEN IF YOU DON'T WANT TO DIE, SOMETIMES IT IS TOO LATE TO STOP THE PROCESS OF HAVING HURT YOURSELF. ANYWAY, WE ALL ARE GOING TO DIE, THAT'S FOR SURE. SALVADOR DALI MADE A RECORD. HE SAYS THAT SOMETIMES HE INVITES DEATH TO COME SIT WITH HIM, HAVE A DRINK, SO HE'LL KNOW HER BETTER, SO WHEN SHE COMES HE'LL BE LESS AFRAID. I HAVE IT HERE & I WILL MAKE YOU LISTEN TO IT IN SPANISH BECAUSE IT'S REALLY VERY SURREALIST & VERY TRUE AT THE SAME TIME. IF YOU GOT CLOSER TO THE IDEA OF DEATH YOU WOULD BE LESS AFRAID TO DIE AT THAT CERTAIN MOMENT OF YOUR LIFE. LIFE & DEATH, I EXPERIENCED BOTH OF THEM. WHEN MY CHILDREN WERE BORN IT WAS LIFE & WHEN MY HUSBAND DIED IN MY ARMS IT WAS DEATH. THOSE ARE THE TWO MOST IMPORTANT MOMENTS OF OUR LIVES. BECAUSE THOSE TWO THINGS GO BEYOND OUR WILL. THE CHILD IS BORN & YOU CANNOT DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT & WHEN WE DIE, WE CANNOT DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT. I BELIEVE THERE ARE NO STRONGER MOMENTS THAN THAT IN LIFE— BIRTH & DEATH. THE REST IS JUST FILLING UP YOUR LIFE & PREPARING YOUR DEATH. WE ARE ON THIS EARTH FOR A REASON, SO WE HAVE TO TRY TO FILL IT UP WITH DAYS THAT ARE FULL OF THINGS THAT ARE SOMETIMES PAINFUL, SOMETIMES JOYFUL BUT ALWAYS FULFILLING BECAUSE WE HAVE TO TRY TO LIVE LIFE THE BEST WE CAN. BUT WE ARE ALL DIFFERENT & OUR CONCEPT OF LIFE IS DIFFERENT. I AM NOT PERFECT AT ALL, I AM THE ONLY ONE TO KNOW MY OWN SECRETS & TO KNOW MY DEFECTS & WEAKNESSES, BUT I WOULD LIKE TO LOOK AT MYSELF IN THE MIRROR EVERY NIGHT & SAY I DID MY BEST.
/ Excerpt from A CONVERSATION WITH Irene Silvagni. ENTIRE 5 PAGE INTERVIEW ONLY IN PRINTED EDITION OF SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE
POSTED 08.36AM BY LUKE MAYES / SEE ALL POSTS RELATED TO THIS AUTHOR
Cette exposition célèbrera l'ouverture de la galerie et présentera le travail des photographes Martin d’Orgeval, Julien Claessens, Thomas Deschamps et Monika Bielskyte. SOME/THINGS SECRET se veut le prolongement physique direct de SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE, dont le troisième volume - ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE - a été publié en septembre dernier.
Martin d’Orgeval, photographe parisien, exposera les récents travaux issus de ses séries intitulées 'Daguerreotype', projet en collaboration avec Anna Pahlavi. Utilisant une technique photographique du 19ème siècle, les clichés 'Daguerreotype' d'Orgeval évoquent des visions de lieux, tel un souvenir revenant à la mémoire ou émergeant de sphères intuitives. Les séries de taxidermie Deyrolle par Martin d’Orgeval sont présentées dans SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003. Il a également collaboré exclusivement avec SOME/THINGS sur un projet de livre de photographies rares et recherchées (incluant des oeuvres telles que 'Toshi-e' de Yutaka Takanashi, 'Labyrinthe' de Richard Long et 'Sea of Buddhas' d'Hiroshi Sugimoto.) Martin d’Orgeval termine actuellement un travail sur un livre consacré à l’influent photographe Robert Frank, qui sera publié aux éditions Steidl. Ses photographies et travaux ont été présentés aux Etats-Unis, en Grande-Bretagne, en Italie, en Allemagne et en France, notamment à la Maison Européenne de la Photographie et à la galerie Ghislaine Hussenot à Paris.
Julien Claessens est un photographe français installé en Belgique. Les clichés intimes de ses amis et de ses amants, teintés d'une sombre lumière, traduisent un humanisme au delà des mots, à la fois sensuel et dérangeant. Claessens est connu pour avoir collaboré avec le designer Olivier Theyskens sur son livre intitulé 'The Other Side Of The Picture', publié aux éditions Assouline. C'est la première fois que son travail sera exposé à Paris, donnant suite aux expositions à la galerie Le Réverbère à Lyon et au Salon d’Art de Bruxelles. Les photographies du français Thomas Deschamps saisissent les détails -en apparence- sans vie du quotidien; en résulte de délicates natures mortes d’une incroyable beauté et des intérieurs figés dans une ambiance grise et fantomatique. SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE consacre un long sujet de 22 pages au duo Julien Claessens et Thomas Deschamps, qui travaillent ensemble depuis plus de 15 ans.
L’artiste lituanienne Monika Bielskyte, exposera le CHAPITRE 2 de son projet intitulé 'A PLACE TO WASH THE HEART', retraçant 4 années de photographies au Cambodge, au Vietnam, en Sibérie, au Pérou, au Chili et en Bolivie. Grandes boîtes lumineuses, projections de vidéos et photographies de Potosi, l'une des plus anciennes mines d’argent au monde, située à 4700 mètres endessous du niveau de la mer et tristement célèbre pour ses épouvantables conditions de travail. Les tons riches et intenses des photographies de Monika Bielskyte font écho aux représentations baroques de la chair humaine et des entrailles et à la brutalité exacerbée de la peinture catholique traditionnelle d'Amérique du sud. Monika Bielskyte, qui vit à Paris depuis 2005, a exposé à Foam [Amsterdam Photography Museum], à la Vartai Gallery [Vilnius], dans le cadre des Rencontres D’Arles et de la Nuit Blanche à Paris, au Three Shadows Photography Art Centre [Beijing], à la Royal Academy of Arts [London] et à la National Gallery of Art [Vilnius].
La programmation d’art contemporain de la galerie SOME/THINGS SECRET est orchestrée par Raina Lampkins-Fielder grâce à l’aide des collaborateurs et membres de l’équipe SOME/THINGS.
En plus d'être une galerie, SOME/THINGS SECRET sera une boutique privée, un espace de création, et un showroom/studio destiné à l'usage exclusif des clients. L’espace accueillera environ six expositions par an et ouvrira ses portes à l'occasion de la Fashion Week de Paris, de la FIAC et du salon de la photographie Paris Photo. Des performances artistiques ou musicales auront lieux chaque mois.
VERNISSAGE PRIVE Vendredi 19 Novembre 19H00-21h00, RSVP EVENTS@SOMESLASHTHINGS.COM
OUVERTURE DE L'EXPOSITION / DU SAMEDI 20 NOVEMBRE 2010 AU 16 JANVIER 2011 [sur rendez- vous uniquement] GALERIE SOME/THINGS SECRET, 16 VILLA GAUDELET 75011 PARIS.
CONTACT PRESSE caroline lorenski - caroline@someslashthings.com
CONTACT COMMERCIAL James cheng tan - sales@someslashthings.com
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SUZANNE VON AICHINGER WEARING AF VANDEVORST SHIRT & 7 VIRIDI-ANNE OXIDIZED METAL BELTS / PHOTOGRAPHY JOHAN SANDBERG / STYLING ELLEN AF GEIJERSTAM / MAKE UP ALICE GHENDRIH / HAIR SEB BASCLE / CASTING ALEXANDRA SANDBERG. IN SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE
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'THERE ARE NO LIMITS IN THE FIELD OF ART, IF ONLY THERE ARE NO LIMITS IN YOUR MIND. HISTORY CAN BE BORROWED, ALTERED & RE-IMAGINED BY ONESELF... DURING THE PROCESS OF MAKING ART, WHAT I TRY TO EXPERIENCE IS EXISTENCE, BODY & REALITY. I HATE THE 'PERFORMATIVE ASPECT' IN THE WORKS.' / EXCERPT FROM ZHANG HUAN INTERVIEW IN SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE001 / SHEDDING SNATCHES OF SONG LIKE PETALS
IN SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE WE CONTINUE COLLABORATION WITH ZHANG HUAN, ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT CONTEMPORARY & PERFORMANCE ARTISTS TO COME OUT OF CHINA. WE FIRST FEATURED ZHANG HUAN IN ISSUE001. WE TRY TO MAINTAIN CLOSE INVOLVEMENT & COMMUNICATION WITH THE ARTISTS WE FEATURE, ALLOWING US TO WORK WITH COLLABORATORS ON AN INTIMATE LEVEL TO CREATE A STORY THAT IS UNIQUE.
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ALEKS RASTOVIC IN SOME/THINGS ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE. SHOT DISCREETLY IN CHURCHES IN & AROUND PARIS, BY SOME/THINGS CREATIVE DIRECTOR MONIKA BIELSKYTE. RETHINKS FASHION, CONTEXT & SEXUAL TENSION. [IMAGES ABOVE: CLOTHES BY AF VANDEVORST, YOHJI YAMAMOTO, NICOLAS ANDREAS TARALIS, ANN DEMEULEMEESTER, DRIES VAN NOTEN, & SHARON WAUCHOB]
SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 IS NOW AVAILABLE AT OVER 50 SELECT STOCKISTS IN 20 COUNTRIES, OR CAN BE PURCHASED ONLINE AT SOME/THINGS BOUTIQUE.
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A FEW WEEKS AGO I ASKED THOMAS DESCHAMPS TO MAKE HIS OWN INTERPRETATION OF ISSUE003 & HERE ARE THE 4 IMAGES I FOUND IN MY MAILBOX YESTERDAY. I WAS SURPRISED BY HOW DIFFERENT OUR BOOK BECAME IN HIS EYES; HOW EXQUISITE, HOW STRANGE, HOW BEAUTIFUL. THOMAS HAS THIS SPECIAL WAY OF RENDERING EVERYDAY OBJECTS & SIGHTS INTO SOMETHING INCREDIBLY DELICATE, A DIFFERENT SORT OF REALITY, SOMETHING ONE DOESNT SEE WITH THE NAKED EYE. SOMETHING SO STILL & SO OUT OF TIME.
NEEDLESS TO SAY WE ARE HAPPY TO CONTINUE THE COLLABORATION THAT WE STARTED WITH THOMAS & JULIEN CLAESSENS, WHICH BEGAN WITH A 22-PAGE FEATURE IN ISSUE003. ON NOVEMBER 19 THE SOME/THINGS SPACE WILL OPEN WITH AN EXHIBITION & THOMAS IS ONE OF THE 4 ARTISTS WE WILL FEATURE. MORE INFORMATION SOON. LOVE //
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PARIS, FRANCE — Olivier Theyskens caused a veritable fashionista frenzy in New York earlier this month when he launched a capsule collection for American contemporary brand Theory, which is known for its accessible prices and well-fitting trousers, but not necessarily for its fashion aesthetic or production quality. It was a surprise move for Mr. Theyskens, a designer who has been criticised in the past as being out of touch with the commercial side of the business during his time at Rochas and Nina Ricci.
The new capsule collection — dubbed Theyskens’ Theory — put that criticism to rest, for once and for all. Suzy Menkes, the fashion critic for the International Herald Tribune, wrote that “if Theory succeeds in raising the quality, while keeping an acceptable price for the workmanship, Mr. Theyskens may be able to express himself even better than when he was at couture’s giddy heights.” Menkes’ colleague and counterpart at the New York Times, Cathy Horyn, said the clothes were “remarkable because they reflect Mr. Theyskens’s signature drainpipe style, but also look like Theory’s urban wardrobe.” And Style.com’s Nicole Phelps concluded that Theory CEO Andrew Rosen “made Olivier Theyskens fans into some very happy girls,” with high-quality fabrics from Italy and Japan, manufactured into desirable garments in America and China, keeping most of the garments well below $1,000.
But don’t let this newfound pragmatism fool you into thinking that Theyskens is out of touch with his more creative, esoteric side. I had the privilege of sitting alongside Mr Theyskens on the graduate jury at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts last year, and witnessed first hand his passion for the raw creativity on display at one of the finest fashion schools in the world. And today, The Business of Fashion can exclusively bring to you an excerpt of an extensive, candid interview with Theyskens by Stephen Todd, kindly provided to us by SOME/THINGS magazine, which was featured in BoF last year.
Photographed by the magazine’s founder Monika Bielskyte in an intimate one-on-one photo shoot, Theyskens reveals himself to be an alluring subject for the camera, distinctly different from the somewhat ethereal images we have seen of him in the past, and shares his love of cats, the creative process, and the role of drama in his life.
Stephen Todd: In a previous conversation, when I mentioned to you that you’d fallen asleep curled up in a ball on a tiny couch at Jacky’s (co-founder of Shirtology & one of Olivier’s best friends) place, you said you were like a kitten!
Olivier Theyskens: I’m very cat! I love all animals, but cats are particularly beautiful. A cat is everything more than we are: more supple, more streamlined, more independent, faster, more agile. Everything! I have a chat sauvage, a once feral cat, that I had to leave in Belgium because she is in her habitat there. She’s incredible: blacker than black, with enormous whiskers, truly extraordinary. She’s a fantastic hunter, a real feline creature. ST: I find it interesting that you give yourself so easily to being photographed. I always think of you as someone who keeps a distance, solitary. You’ve never struck me as the kind of guy who allows easy access to himself. OT: Solitary? I can be, and I certainly have been during different periods of my life. But I can also be extremely social, although I’m very conscious not to allow myself to grow tired of that. Tired of people. I can see people non-stop and then, all of a sudden, have an almost visceral need to be alone. Often that corresponds with a great flood of creativity, when I feel this incredible need to isolate myself and think, and dream and draw. But then, after a few days of that, I feel the need again to be social, to see friends, or colleagues to chat, to reflect on what I’ve done, to input their points of view.
I really admire people who have that incredible discipline to draw all alone every morning. But that’s not me. I’m too sporadic in my desires. That said, when I began in fashion, I believed as a designer you had to draw all alone, to be isolated in your creative space, à la Yves Saint Laurent. But it’s not true. Not even for Saint Laurent, he had Loulou and all these other little satellites revolving around him, showing him fabric, accessories, saying ‘What do you think of this, of that?’ and that, would it look good… So, in fact, despite the myth, he never really worked completely alone. Sure, sometimes he found himself alone in the room, him and his solitude. He had a kind of mini Court of Versailles nonetheless. And the thing with having a little court is that from time to time you feel the impulse to escape, the need to be alone in order to breathe.
ST: Your aesthetic has a distinctly dramatic side. What role does drama have in your life?
OT: I’ve always liked drama, that’s for sure. But on the podium, not in my QUOTIDIaN! I always like it when behind first appearances there is an undertow of drama, a potential for an explosion of emotion or an extravagant gesture that will make everybody stop and pay attention. If you need to have strength in life, it’s because something out there could harm you. Or at least make you feel fragile, vulnerable, so you have to be constantly on the look-out.
It’s that tensile feeling that I find both compelling & repelling. There is nothing that inspires me less than someone who is completely happy in the face of life, who goes about life completely content with all that is thrown in their path. The person who just floats along, with no idea where they’re going, no engagement with the world. Let’s just say, she would not be my muse! I appreciate people who are conscious, awake, who are alive to what’s going on around them. Who, when they see something cruel, cry. I find that really important. For me, beauty could never function in conjunction with a stance that is beyond reality.
The complete interview with Olivier Theyskens appears in ISSUE003 of SOME/THINGS, available in select fashion stores and art galleries in 20 countries around the world. The magazine will be hosting a launch party to close out Paris Fashion Week on 6 October 2010. For further information, please contact events@someslashthings.com.
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[youtube BmlEsc6eIfU width=640]
The full line-up for ISSUE003 includes designers YOHJI YAMAMOTO, RICK OWENS, & OLIVIER THEYSKENS [NINA RICCI & ROCHAS]; former editor-in-chief of French VOGUE IRENE SILVAGNI; musicians JARVIS COCKER [PULP], BRETT ANDERSON [SUEDE], & WARREN ELLIS [NICK CAVE & THE BAD SEEDS]; artists STEVE MCQUEEN [with actress CHARLOTTE RAMPLING], ZHANG HUAN, LEE BUL, PINAR YOLAÇAN, MARTIN D’ORGEVAL, DESIREE DOLRON, & MIGUEL RIO BRANCO; photographers JULIEN CLAESSENS, THOMAS DESCHAMPS, MOTE SINABEL [with acclaimed butoh performer TAKETERU KUDO], MILOSLAV DRUCKMÜLLER [interview with DEREK THOMSON], & JOHAN SANDBERG [featuring SUZANNE VON AICHINGER, 80’s fashion icon & JEAN PAUL GAULTIER muse], plus intimate portraits of BETONY VERNON from her boudoir-dungeon & discussion about her life & book THE BOUDOIR BIBLE. Post-face contributed by artist ROGER BALLEN.
SOME/THINGS ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE VIDEO PHOTOGRAPHY BY HUBERT MAROT & CHARLOTTE BALLESTEROS / EDITING MONIKA BIELSKYTE / PRODUCTION SOME/THINGS AGENCY.
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WE WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERYONE WHO HELPED ORGANISE & CAME TO THE LAUNCH OF SOME/THINGS ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE. THE EVENT WAS HELD AT THE SOME/THINGS SPACE-UNDER-CONSTRUCTION WHICH WILL OFFICIALLY OPEN NOVEMBER 19 [SAVE THE DATE] WITH AN EXHIBITION BY MARTIN D'ORGEVAL, JULIEN CLAESSENS & THOMAS DESCHAMPS.
FOR EVERYONE WHO MISSED THE LAUNCH, OR HASN'T ALREADY A COPY, SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 IS NOW AVAILABLE AT SELECT STOCKISTS WORLDWIDE, OR CAN BE PURCHASED ONLINE AT SOME/THINGS BOUTIQUE.
IMAGES ABOVE: JAM SESSION BY SCOTT BARNHILL [ALVIN & THE 1015], LIGHTBOX BY MONIKA BIELSKYTE, VIDEO PROJECTION WITH IMAGES BY CHARLOTTE BALLESTEROS & HUBERT MAROT EDITED BY SOME/THINGS AGENCY.
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SOME/THINGS ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE features stills from ARTIST STEVE MCQUEEN’S FILM, CHARLOTTE— A TENDER & STRIKINGLY SEXUAL PROJECTION OF ACTRESS CHARLOTTE RAMPLING.
Photograph by CHARLOTTE BALLESTEROS & HUBERT MAROT WHO ARE WORKING ON A VIDEO PROJECTION FOR SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 LAUNCH PARTY OCTOBER 6 HERE IN PARIS
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SOME/THINGS WILL LAUNCH ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE at the new SPACE-UNDER-CONSTRUCTION on OCTOBER 6th DURING FASHION WEEK in PARIS. A very special and intimate event featuring a private jam session with SCOTT BARNHILL [ALVIN and THE 1015] & show music selection by SENJAN JANSEN as well as video projections.
Photograph by MONIKA BIELSKYTE
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SOME/THINGS ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE CONVEYS RELATIONSHIPS & EXPERIENCES BETWEEN PEOPLE, BETWEEN PLACES, & WITHIN OUR SOCIETY & CULTURE. IT EVOKES A FASCINATION FOR THE THINGS WE HAVE IN OUR LIVES, ESPECIALLY THE PEOPLE & PLACES THAT ARE A PART OF IT. ALTHOUGH A SLIGHT DEPARTURE FROM THE AUSTERE & MONOCHROMATIC AESTHETIC OF THE FIRST TWO BOOKS, FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE MAINTAINS A UNIQUE APPROACH TO CONTEMPORARY ART, CULTURE & FASHION, THIS TIME WITH A PARTICULARLY STRONG FOCUS ON PERSONAL HISTORIES. WHILE ESCHEWING AN OVERT SENSE OF NOSTALGIA, IT ACKNOWLEDGES PAST EXPERIENCES & PAST RELATIONSHIPS, & THE INFLUENCE THEY HAVE ON THE PRESENT.
The full line-up for ISSUE003 includes designers YOHJI YAMAMOTO, RICK OWENS, & OLIVIER THEYSKENS [NINA RICCI & ROCHAS]; former editor-in-chief of French VOGUE IRENE SILVAGNI; musicians JARVIS COCKER [PULP], BRETT ANDERSON [SUEDE], & WARREN ELLIS [NICK CAVE & THE BAD SEEDS]; artists STEVE MCQUEEN [with actress CHARLOTTE RAMPLING], ZHANG HUAN, LEE BUL, PINAR YOLAÇAN, MARTIN D’ORGEVAL, DESIREE DOLRON, & MIGUEL RIO BRANCO; photographers JULIEN CLAESSENS, THOMAS DESCHAMPS, MOTE SINABEL [with acclaimed butoh performer TAKETERU KUDO], MILOSLAV DRUCKMÜLLER [interview with DEREK THOMSON], & JOHAN SANDBERG [featuring SUZANNE VON AICHINGER, 80’s fashion icon & JEAN PAUL GAULTIER muse], plus intimate portraits of BETONY VERNON from her boudoir-dungeon & discussion about her life & book THE BOUDOIR BIBLE. Post-face contributed by artist ROGER BALLEN.
ISSUE003 OPENS WITH MIGUEL RIO BRANCO’S INTENSE COLOUR IMAGERY, REVEALING THE SHADOWY SIDE OF BRAZIL, IN WHICH BEAUTY BECOMES BEAST, & DESIRE BECOMES MADNESS— A MULTITUDE OF REALITIES & CREEDS WITH FACES & BODIES MELTING INTO ONE ANOTHER— FRIGHTENING, YET ENTRANCING & FASCINATING.
INTIMATE PORTRAITS OF BETONY VERNON FROM HER BOUDOIR-DUNGEON & DISCUSSION ON THE PLEASURE TABOO.
CONTINUING THE COLLABORATION WITH THE HOUSE OF RICK OWENS & MICHELE LAMY, FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE PROVIDES A GLIMPSE INTO THE PRODUCTION PROCESS OF RICK’S NEW ALABASTER FURNITURE, SHOT IN THE INTIMATE SPACE OF THE ATELIERS WHERE THE PIECES ARE BEING HAND MADE.
FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE SEES THE CONTINUED RELATIONSHIP WITH PHOTOGRAPHER MOTE SINABEL IN A SPECIAL EDITORIAL FEATURING ONE OF JAPAN’S MOST ACCLAIMED BUTOH DANCERS, TAKETERU KUDO AS WELL AS MODEL MARCEL CASTENMILLER, KNOWN FOR HIS WORK WITH ANN DEMEULEMEESTER.
STILLS FROM ARTIST STEVE MCQUEEN’S FILM, CHARLOTTE— A TENDER & STRIKINGLY SEXUAL PROJECTION OF ACTRESS CHARLOTTE RAMPLING.
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The under construction SOME/THINGS space will host the SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE ISSUE003 / FAREWELL MY CONCUBINE Launch party during Paris Fashion Week. Upon its completion, the space will act as A PRIVATE GALLERY/BOUTIQUE, CREATIVE ENVIRONMENT & IDEA EXCHANGE. ALSO AVAILABLE AS A SHOWROOM/STUDIO SPACE FOR EXCLUSIVE USE BY OUR CLIENTS.
/ Photographs by LUKE MAYES
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